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Brake Rotors and Pads
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TOPIC: Brake Rotors and Pads

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21779

  • Perryn59
  • OFFLINE
  • Drivers Ed
  • 4356408216
  • Posts: 10
Sorry, just to clarify, we want the DTC-60 part # HB199G.702 for the fronts? And the Blue 9012 part # HB198E.685 or the HT-10 part # HB198S.685 in the rear? If you could please verify part numbers so I don't order the wrong pads, thanks!

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21780

  • Robbie
  • OFFLINE
  • Junior Racer
  • The dread pirate
  • Posts: 51
I ran the cheapest rotors I could find, Hawk DTC70 front DTC 60 rear and ATE brake fluid. 4 seasons later nothing is even half worn. The brakes are so overkill on these cars, people in the RM region got away with part store pads.
1987 924S #5 NASA RM
The following user(s) said Thank You: Lucid Moments

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21781

This is kind of my point. You can fix a lot of possible problems, but until you actually have brake fade you are fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
NASA SE Grid monkey extrordinaire
'94 Honda Civic RIP
1984 944 work in progress

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21783

Lucid Moments wrote:
This is kind of my point. You can fix a lot of possible problems, but until you actually have brake fade you are fixing a problem that doesn't exist.


Agree- I wouldn't add any ducting until you actually had a brake issue.

I have run approx 5 years without any brake cooling and have yet to have an issue. Currently have HT-10s on the front and Blues on the back and, judging by the pad wear, will get 2 years of use running 10-12 weekends a year.
#08
NASA Southeast
944-Spec

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21784

  • AgRacer
  • OFFLINE
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 712
Spend 14 laps in close proximity of the rear bumper of another car in the middle of summer in the south and you will find out what brake fade feels like.

youtu.be/SOkXfmQ4_B0

youtu.be/dW6A-c_sAxA

My thoughts on cheap rotors still remain. Buy a quality brand that uses a good forge. The cheapest stuff is a gamble because the metallurgy isn't quite as good so will be prone to premature heat stress failure. Not saying it's likely to happen, but cheap china blank rotors have a history across many club racing platforms to failing once serious heat is put into them.

My mantra with everything is to use quality parts the first time so I don't loose time at the track working on my car. You can decide what quality parts are or if you even need slotted rotors. Slotted rotors will advance pad wear but always ensure the pad stays clean against the rotor.
J. Stanley
NASA-SE Region 944 Spec Series Director
Yellow #60

Re: Brake Rotors and Pads 2 years, 4 months ago #21785

  • Robbie
  • OFFLINE
  • Junior Racer
  • The dread pirate
  • Posts: 51
I have run behind several cars for 30 min up at a mile high in the middle of summer. We have less barometric pressure and less humidity and similar temps to the SE. It's brutal on cars and brakes. I never have had fade and my rotors last seasons.

While I agree with your quality parts mantra, putting more money into the brakes is money not well spent, IMO.
1987 924S #5 NASA RM
Last Edit: 2 years, 4 months ago by Robbie.
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