Hey guys,

Just wanted to get a few opinions on what people favor for steering racks. I currently have a power rack that I took apart and removed the seals and it works fine. I do have a complete manual rack on my parts car that I am thinking about swapping to. I haven't yet because the power has a quicker ratio which I assumed would be better but I have bad shoulders and yanking that wheel around at slow speeds is a pain, literally.

I have to have more surgery soon which will most likely end racing, at least for awhile but I want to see if I can make things a bit easier first. I ran a full power setup after my last surgery and that was fine except for the leaks. I rebuilt it all once but it leaked again eventually and wasn't cheap to do. I'm hoping the manual will make a difference, however slight that will keep me going a bit longer.

Does anybody absolutely hate the manual and if so why? Is the ratio noticeably slower and gets you working too hard to catch a slide? Like most guys I like oversteer more than under steer so this might be more work because of bigger turns, although while racing I don't notice the pain.

Thanks
Ron

My car has a depowered rack, my 951 has a manual rack. I also rented a car this year with a manual rack. The manual rack requires much more input / effort and gives you a "workout"...the depowered rack ratio just feels right IMHO.

SamGrant951 wrote:


From what I know about ratios and options available to us, I would agree with this analysis. I have a proper manual rack and it is a chore especially in quick reactions (chicane, catching the car, etc). Im still young and in ok shape but would still prefer the depowered or powered rack.

unlike Jason, I am old and I like my proper manual rack. in my opinion it is easier to find the right amount of steering input to catch the car. The drawback I find is in slower large degree turns- I have to shuffle my hands a bit and I am trying to stop doing that this year.

I think it is a "to each his own" type of deal.

FYI- I have had my right shoulder rebuilt and still have no issues with the manual.

I too have a real manual rack. It's the only rack that I've had so I can't tell you about the differences between the two. What I can tell you is that when I get into a tank slapper, instead of trying to save it by turning the wheel multiple times, I just let the wheel go and it corrects itself. I don't know if that's because its a manual or the alignment. Have you tried to adjust your caster to full? That would help. I would be interested in your outcome as I need my shoulder done too, one of these days. Maybe even repower the rack. This might be the best option for you and just live with the leaks.

I ran a de-powered rack for around 7 years and now a manual rack for the last 4 years or so, all in the same spec car that my wife tracks as well.
Some observations:
The manual rack is easier to turn in low speed corners and in the pits or any low speed drive. In a hard, tight corner, the manual rack is easier, but requires more "turning" than the de-powered rack (due to the ratios), especially with a small diameter steering wheel. The manual rack is much lighter (weight) and easier to remove and install. HOWEVER, the inner tie rod ends are a major problem with the manual rack. The originals are NLA. The current replacements, which are made by Hamburg Technik are pure JUNK. I believe that they are actually made for a VW rabbit. (outer tie rod ends seem OK) They DO NOT hold up in racing. After burning through a bunch of them, I found an NOS set of originals, so I am OK for a few years.
If you have shoulder issues or lower arm strength, use a fully powered rack and live with the contant rebuilds for the never ending leaks. If not, the manual is the best choice, but only if you find one with great condition inner tie rods. The de-powered is not a bad choice, just a little less preferable.
Hope that helps!
Chuck