hey those seats look nice . you should be able to get $300-$400 on craigslist easy.

That seat cover on the other hand looks price less !

Well I have taken everything out. I am at the point of scraping out the glue and grinding off any tabs and such not needed. I will be cutting out thin gage sheet metal to replace the openings in the dash. Coming along nice. we think we are going to paint the inside. not high end just spraypaint. Things going good.

any hints to the inside would be appreciated. Think we decided on the bolt in cage. will just be easier. Think I will order it on Friday.

Question: I have my old drag racing 5 point harness that is past the 2year rule for drag racing. They are in great shape. Can I use these for the 944 spec, or due the dates matter as well.

NASA has the same 2 year rule on harness so no dice.

You can however get an FIA approved harness. These are good for 5 years since that is how long the FIA approves them for. NASA honors this. They do not alot cost more, but are good for 3 more years so they are well worth it.

As for the dash are you covering where the center console used to be? I used plastic plate and use that area for switches. Stock oil pressure and aftermarket oil temp gauges are in the center speaker grate

Here is my early car interior.

Before you toss those harnesses, some manufacturers will re-certify your SFI harnesses. I researched this when buying mine. I know Crow will do it for a small fee +shipping. Might be extra if rewebbing is needed.

Sounds like your past this point, I was going to advise you pay attention and label the wiring you remove. I drove my car around for a month with wierd electrical gremlins like no blinkers, no back-up light and the door chime randomly going off because I cut wires going to the center console. But, at least make sure all your electrical is right before you bolt the cage in. It was no fun sqeezing under the dash to fix wiring with the cage in.

I have the autopower bolt-in cage. If you get that one, it'll come with the extra required door bars but you'll need to have the pieces welded to the cage. I didn't double check for proper fit after tack welding ALL the pieces, and now one side's just a little bit off. The sleeve hammers on ok, but every joint is now in a bind and not easily removed.

I also removed alot of the adhesives with Charcoal Briquet Lighter Fluid. Disolves it pretty well and didn't seem to hurt any paint. Then I discovered they make 3M adhesive remover, but it didn't seem to work any better.

Dang,

I was hoping my belts would work. Yeah I think they will recert them but might as well buy 5 year ones so dont have to worry for awhile.

Yes We labelled the wires. Not our first car. I will post our drag car when Have time. Going home from work now to work on it. Still removing stuff. alot of glue. I like the car to look clean.

Thank you on the Interior pictures. Helps us see what others are doing. anyone else have any I would appreciate it. Want to use the same area for the gauges. seems practical. the speaker grill area..... and such.

Let me ask. we are going to do a button start like our drag car so dont need to find key..... But what other switches do you guys run....

Only one We are adding is to control the fans. most the stock switches for lights and such might replace to just toggles....anything else you run..

P.S. thanks for all the info.

I just recently added a toggle for the high power fan (the two speed fan is jumped, so it is on with the kill switch) My ignition switch was toast so I removed the steering lock, and used a toggle for ignition on and a push button. I fabbed a little steel plate and put those two just to the right of the column, where (I think) the rear defog switch or wiper used to be. I'll try to remember to snap a pic for you.