Thanks for the mention Eric!

Hopefully within a month or so we will be able to start really testing any benefits provided by the difference in the cams. We are in the process of looking into modifying our test/break-in stand that we run-in our freshly built motors on with a Stuska XS-111 water brake and Powerpro dyno setup. Our original goal was to determine of there is any noticeable power loss at the flywheel due to rotational mass & real world gains of early vs. late afm & FQS switch settings. This would ultimately tell us if we can build a little stronger, more reliable engine (using forged crank and rods) without losing too much power that might be gained by using a lighter cast crank and cast rods. Not to mention real world power gains of '88 pistons, shaved heads, factory airbox vs cone filter, fuel octane, etc...

With all the debate over "pro built" motors going on, hopefully this wont put a label on us, but we will still offer our same spec-rebuild price!

Our goal is and always has been to build quality, reliable spec race engines at an affordable price. We don't build "cheater" engines, just rebuilt race engines that adhere to factory specifications, with a stress on longevity.

To build a quality engine that attempts to approach the maximum legal horsepower/torque limit (which is almost impossible to obtain if the engine is rebuilt to factory specs) Alot of attention to detail must go into the assembly of the engine. The oil clearance of all bearings, ring end gaps, cylinder taper or ogive (cant be fixed without sleeves) oil pump clearance, quality of valve guides, shoulder height of valves, crankshaft thrust, quality of camshaft....this is just the beginning of the details must be assessed to make sure the engine is going to provide as much power as possible, for as long as possible, and I stress: "for as long as possible"!

No-one wants to build a new race engine every year. Hence, if the engine can be made more reliable with little to no performance loss, that is ideal... and our goal!

At Bennington Motorsports we don’t build $10k engines, we don't even build $5k engines. In fact, when our Midwest rental car dyno'd out at 138.86hp/137.27t (which was indeed higher than everyone else in our region) there were some eyebrows raised! I made the offer: anyone who wants to observe the teardown, and measurement autopsy, I would personally pay half of the ultimate re-assembly price!!

Bottom line... if your going to build an engine, don't build it "Flat out!! " build it to perform & last, you will thank yourself in the long run! Not to mention decent rebuild able blocks are getting harder and harder to source. If everyone blows 1 engine per year, I give it less than 5 years before every "spec" race engine out there has to be sleeved!!!

Just some food for thought, hopefully it doesn’t sound too much like a commercial

-Nick Miller
Bennington Motorsports.

First off it did not sound like a commercial but a good summary of how to attach the problem of rebuilding an engine to performance in the high range of horspower and torque as well as last.

I feel fortunate to have found a crate motor as I am expecting through proper care to have a reliable engine with proper power for an extended period of time.

One question, your comment regarding a forged versus cast cam which in the end has the better strength and reliability?

One comment. Through testing for best HP I found that retaining the stock air box made the best outcome do to the engineering in the floor of the box which must assist in air induction. I did discover that moving the air intake from the wheel well to in front of the wheel well utilizing a cone filter was optimum. I think it is due to slightly cooler air and more of a ram induction of the air once outside the wheel well. It does result in a need for constant cleaning. I will check but I think we experimented with ram induction through the turn light hole and did not see a better outcome.

You mention removing rubber bumpers. I'm new to the series and have been thinking that the front bumper is insanely heavy. Sounds like I'm allowed to just unbolt the two big rubber blocks off the front. Is that correct?

Any other good suggestions for easily shedding weight? You mentioned the dash as well.

bumper pads both front and rear, heater components, all the un-needed wiring you can remove, complete dash gone, fuse and relay panels, e-brake, etc....

It is easy to remove the front rubber bumper guards it is just 4 bolts. Yes they are heavy mabe 10 LBS a piece others could confirm that, however it is weight infront of wheels so it is in a bad location. Also remove the rear ones. These are a little trickier as they hold in the side plastic bumper pieces. So once removed you will need to put a large washer over the bolt so that it is larger than the plastic corner piece hole. Again this can be done by any novice mechanic. ( heck I did it)

Removing the dash is very helpful to reduce weight and its location as it is up high. I spent about $600 for six analog instruments. You can spend about $1000 to $1200 for an electronic dash but why. I also moved the guages to a better location at eye level just to right of steering wheel in what would be above the transaxle tunnel. The six guages were as follows
Oil Pressure ATM 4321
Fuel Pressure ATM 4311
Oil Temp ATM 070-4341
Water Temp ATM 070-4331
Tach ATM 4497
The $600 included aluminum bracket to hold instraments.
I also installed a shift light on cage brace at eye level.

See attached pictures.

Other weight would be remove the passenger seat, take out the door bars, take out the door latch components and replace with simple strap, take out power steering, AC, heater if you can take out all unneeded wiring this could be 50 LBS that includes fuse box. Here you may need an expert as the wrong wire removed and the car will not start. Remove front lights and all the assembly. Use a tow strap on front with a tow hook in back. Take out the key start and replace with button.

get smallest battery that will start the car again weight up high which needs to go.