I busted the T-stat snap ring so halfway through a radiator replacement and have to order a new one, so I decided to just start taking uneccessary parts off the car while I had it in the shop. I need to fab up some aluminum brackets for the headlight covers, as well as some steel brackets for the hood pins.

I'm not messing with any wiring this season, I'll save that for the winter, but I still have to get into the dash and remove the center console likely cut the lower half of the dash away and get the heater core and bits out.

Any suggestions on routing the coolant after the core removal?

What do you guys do about the shift boot after the tunnel console is removed? aftermarket? modified stock?

Thanks,
Ryan

B1BFlyer wrote:


I have seen heater core bypass hoses at lindsey and other places.

I am using a fireproof shifter boot from Simpson that will fit over the existing shifter and using aluminium strap to hold it down (screwed into tunnel).

You'll need a blank off plate for the rear of the head. It is a major PITA to change with the intake manifold on but can be done. Lindsey does sell them.

For the water pump outlet, some people tap it and put in a pipe plug which seems ideal but I don't think you can do it with the pump and head on the car. The other way is to run a short section of hose and plug the hose with something solid. I don't like the rubber caps (dead end hose) as I've had them fail.

Another option for both would be to route coolant from the water pump to the head fitting which would bypass the heater core but you'd have an extra hose that you don't need.

I made a block off plate for the head out of steel plate and used a liberal amount of Permatex, and a short hose on the waterpump with a metal plug. Hasn't leaked in almost 4 years.

B1BFlyer wrote:


For the heater core I just plug both the port on the back of the head and the port on the water pump. This is exactly like keeping the valve closed. Some guys just run a hose all the way around too. For me plugging has worked fine for 10 years.

For the shift boot I just use the stock rubber underboot. I ditched the leather cover long ago, but keep the rubber one. This also keeps seal the area from exhaust gases and other stuff under the car. I don't like the idea of any hole under the car or at the firewall. Just incase of undercar fire I want to minimize cockpit exposure.

For now I think I'll run the bypass hose from the housing to the head, then look at a more permanent block off setup when I need to pull the engine.

I checked my shift boot....dry rotted and not gonna be that helpful for fumes. I did buy a Simpson boot, but I think I'd like to have that rubber underboot for extra protection.

Also found out my shift knob is threaded so I'll be looking to deal with this soon.

I started cutting on the dash and thought about working on the doors but I didn't want to take too much out before asking. I've seen the NASCAR bars that obviously have the inner door cut away, but if I don't have them, is it still okay to cut the doors?