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Brakes, wheel bearings etc.
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TOPIC: Brakes, wheel bearings etc.

Re:Brakes, wheel bearings etc. 15 years ago #542

cullenwinter wrote:
Should I go ahead and get caliper rebuild kits ?
How about the master cylinder ? rebuild ?
Anybody use EBC pads ?(yellows in particular)
Any steel lines better than others ?
What did I overlook ?

Caliper rebuild... You can do it, but if the seals are not busted you are fine. If the brakes work well and you are getting even pad wear I would just leave it. You certainly could, but I would not worry.

Master cylinder. Again does it work? If so leave it be.

EBC pads.... I have not heard good things about them. I love Hawk Blues, but they a racing pad work best when hot. Lots of cold braking will cause them to use an abrasive friction on the rotor thus wearing it down. Once heated up however they depost a later of material on the rotor and thus us an adhesive friction to slow the car. In this way for track only cars you can get 2-5 sets of pads to one set of rotors. Personally I get at least about 3+ sets of pads for one set of rotors. (fronts only I have replaced rear pad rotor so rarely I forget)

Now for you I would recommend KFP Magnum Gold pads. I ran these years ago and they were a fine steet/track pad. Ok at cold temps, but tough enough for hard track use. I moved to Hawk's however when I began to get beyond the heat tolerance of the KFP pad. This occured at one particular track with many moderate to hard braking zones and limited cool down time in between. (BTW... I still have the track record at that place set on the Hawk Blues) In your case I would try the KFP's and see how they do.

Steel lines are pretty much steel lines.

I also run stock rotors. I ran drilled ones for a while, but I never noticed any performance change. Just as a refernece. In 2001 I killed a set of steet pads out at the track, 2/3 of pad gone in 40 mintues on track. Not enough cooling an again multiple braking zones and not enough straight inbetween to cool them. At that time I went with drilled rotor, cooling ducts and much more aggressive pads. I used those drilled rotors for about 3-4 years before needing to swap them out when they got thin. I went through alot of pads along the way. I then used stock rotors. Just last month they were due for replacement. So another 3-4 years from them. With respect to the calipers. My left front had 144k on it before I started driving it in 2000. It has an additional 7 years of track time. I never replaced the seals. My right front started with 46k on it and has been raced on since 2000 as well. Again I never replaced the seals.

One thing I do to keep the brakes firm the way I like them is to bleed the brakes each morning at the track. It takes may be 30 mintues to complete, but also rotate the tires around the car to even up the wear and give the car a good close look over to see if anything is wrong. It takes time, but I believe is good practice.
Joe Paluch
944 Spec #94 Gina Marie Paper Designs
Arizona Regional 944 Spec Director, National Rules Coordinator
2006 Az Champion - 944 Spec Racer Since 2002
Last Edit: 15 years ago by joepaluch.

Re:Brakes, wheel bearings etc. 15 years ago #546

Joe, you are the man with the answers. Thank you very much
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