man...I need to get my stuff installed!

i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh473/GForce...fineon097cropped.jpg

Love that license plate , Gary.
Here's my 2 cents worth......
Jim Foxx is correct when he states that the rubber will flex at the outer spring plate bushing. But, I've thought that the rubber back there was hard enough to prevent MUCH flexing and thus alignment changes during cornering. I've never changed those in any of my cars. Maybe I'm wrong? If so, and I change to delrins back there, I'll go faster. Maybe it's a COST PER SPEED equation with the cost being too high to justify the small speed increase? Honestly don't know.
I ran 30mm torsions in the rear and seemed to run out of adjustability on the rear 22mm Welt sway bar, so we went down to 28mm bars so that we could again adjust the rear grip with the Welt rear sway bar. Maybe we should think about using 30mm torsions and a smaller rear bar? The racing books say to use the softest spring possible.
Regardless, the torsions should only have to be done once.
We disconnect the rear brake lines and the shock top bolts from the body, then drop the whole rear suspension. Sounds scarier than it really is. We have measurements from the banana arm down to the spring plate for the finished ride height. Set your 36mm ride height eccentrics to the middle first. You only do this one time for the life of the car.

tcomeau wrote:


That is true for proper racing cars. For street car conversions with street car geometry and street car spring rates stiffer = better. Until you ge too stiff and then softer is better. I think in our cars we can do with all the spring rate we can. However our sway bars are big given our relativlty soft spring rates. So you can have a sway bar over power a spring causing odd handling.

tcomeau wrote:


If it's good condition rubber, that may be true. In my case, I went from horrible disintegrating, torn up, rubber to polyurethane and the difference was a big deal. The car was much better behaved and predictable... It definitely got a lot easier to have confidence in the car, and a lot easier to drive. I haven't really been accused of being "Spinny McSpinsalot" since.

Howdy fellas...are we still on for this weekend to do the torsion bars in my car? I got new bushings too.
I can do either Saturday or Sunday.
Meet at Ken's shop in the a.m.?


Jeremy

Finally got started on this this weekend. Installed my coilovers, new front springs, struts yesterday, then went against popular consensus and went for the hole saw method in back.
6 hours later... I have my old bars out! It could have been a 2-3 hr job, but I spent an hour measuring, marking, jacking, measuring again. All was going good, until I broke the 3/8 taps in my old t-bars. I spent most of the day dealing with that. Too tired to put the new bars in now. I will be taking them to a machine shop to have them drilled and tapped by a pro tomorrow!

If I could rewind, I would have just removed the spring plate covers or dropped the entire rear suspension, as suggested. Why am I so hard headed?