Impressive build and documenting here. Good stuff.

For alignment, I run 3.5 degrees front and 2.5 rear camber. I like a little front toe out, about 1/8" max as it makes for more responsive turn in but not everyone likes it as the car is a bit darty on straights. Zero rear toe to maybe 1/16" in. Max caster.

I think most guys run about those settings. I have a level set up area marked out in my garage and I alwsys check the car after a race weekend before I lift it and with HOT tire pressure settings. Lifting the car and different tire pressures will effect alignment so I try to get as close as possible to "as raced" and write it down. I also note my shock settings etc.

Got the alignment finished up last night and here is what I ended up with.....
-3.4* Camber for R & L front
full caster in front
0* toe in front.

I only checked the rear and this is what it had
-2.5* camber rear
0* toe

I think this is probably good to start with.

I got a hold of some Toyo's 888 in 225-45-15 These were the only ones I could get in time. I didn't have them shaved I'll run them full tread.


The rest of my safety gear came in today...






I did not include the personal items such as suit, gloves and socks in the build cost. They will stay with me and not the car.
Eye bolts and mount plates for harnes, drver net, window net, window net mount kit, helmet hook, rear view mirror.....$250.93
Total in car so far.....$8779.08

Go back and get the extra .1* until it is right

Looks like a good setup. I'd give it a check after the race to make sure everything is holding and nothing settled out - especially with new bushings. I've had the camber eccentrics move in the past so I now use Loctite and torque ~ 20% over rating.

944Racer72 wrote:



Yeah, but who is to say -3.4 is any worse than -3.5? Really I have not gotten more accurate than maybe .25 degrees on camber. Meaning that I am not sure what works better. 3.4 or 3.6 or 3.5. I don't believe 3.25 works on my car and based on tire temps and wear 3.75 is too much.

Point is you are in the ball park, but to refine it more you need to take tire temps and probably set camber for each track. Since you are starting out leave it be and go for it.

The only caution is rear toe. These rear suspensions naturall flex outward on braking. That makes then a bit of challenge to trail brake with zero rear toe. An LSD helps counter some of that as does harder bushings. However I would still recommend at least 1/16" per side of rear tow in as measured at the out wheel rim. This will create some rear braking stability that essential for being able to brake deep. What you lose is a touch of straghtline speed due to tire scrub, but if you just starting out this well worth it compromise. Never run rear toe out as you will get killed under braking because the back end will wander around.

RacerX wrote:


I don't see a balaclava in there. Two reason to use one. 1) Keep alot of sweat and nasty stuff out of the helmet so the expensive helmet padding stay nicer longer.
2) Fire protection.
Check out this thread... Sobering reminder the while fire is thankfully rare it is very nasty stuff.

http://forums.nasaaz.com/showthread.php?t=4774 Reading the first post is plenty to understand what I am talking about.

joepaluch wrote:


I was joking, thus the winky face. I've found very little difference in speed or tire temps between -3.3 and -3.5.

I agree that just a touch of toe in at the rear is ideal. I usually shoot for 1/16" total. That said I wouldn't prioritize readjusting this setting if you have other stuff to do before tracking the car.