I just put the same bushing in my steel a-arms. I've installed the left side arm, and there was no gap between the castor block and the body. That said, rotating the steel a-arm with the castor block unbolted moved the castor block side to side more than 1/4", so there is a small amount of binding or flex here as well. I'll see how the other side goes tomorrow.

Ken, the right front corner of your car looks like it may have been replaced, from what I remember at the build party. It's odd that both side are the same , if the car is bent, however. For the time being, if your situation is the same after loosening the front cross member, I'd put the rubber bushings in the front of the a-arm to allow more freedom, and then just bolt the castor blocks down. Eventually, you could get the car checked, and see if it needs to be pulled on a frame rack.

Sorry it's been so long since I posted, at least it seems that way. I've been doing a lot of little stuff. I corrected the problem I had with the bushing. Chuck at Paragon helped me. If you remember it was like this.....



When they were installed there was not enough clearance here.....



I know at the build party when they were installed, we "fitted" them but I guess not enough. Once I sanded the bushings down a little more there was just enough "slop" to pull the bushing up tight without binding and no play. I went slow, taking a little off each time and then trying them. It took several tries but I eventually got there.



I guess every car is a little different and mine needed to be "fitted".
I hope that was all it was.

And then there was snow and lots of it!!!!!!

Dave showed up and did some more on the wiring.







The dash works! I never doubted you for a second Dave!!!!



I pulled out the charcoal canister and about 5 lbs of $hit behind it.



I start one project but another has to be finished before the first can be done. I'm doing them out of order and I don't realize it until it's to late. It's like putting brake pads on after you've just installed the wheels. I guess that's why they call it a learning curve.



All the wires, fuses, fuse block terminals, zip ties, anchors, screws, relays, switches and any other electrical items I can't think of at the moment.....$197.20 That should be it for all the wiring.
Grease, Purple Ice (water wetter), misc nuts, bolts, screws, and replaceable items like, but not limited to....drill bits, sandpaper, steelwool, saw blades...$30.94

Total in car so far......$5333.10

Got some parts in today. SS brake lines, steel lug nuts and caliper reseal kits. HEY!!! Who forgot to order brake pads???????




Is it legal to take the marker lights out of the front bumper and then cover over the opening????


Parts listed above $175
Total in car so far.......$5508.10

RacerX wrote:


16.1.5 Body molding, antennas, license plates, license plate frames, license plate lights, and
insignias and emblems may be removed. Turn signals and marker lights maybe removed.
Exposed holes in the body work from these lights may be left open or filled in. Tail lights must
remain intact, but may be taped over with exception of the brake light area.

but

16.1.7 No part of the bumper system may be removed or modified except for the rubber bumper moldings. Tow hooks may be added to the bumpers.

So I am guessing that you could fill them in...they arent part of the "Bumper System" at least that is how I read it.
One of the things I am also curious about is being able to trim the marker light screw tabs on the bumper. Or would this constitute maodifying the bumper system.

I was thinking the spirit of 16.1.7 was to not allow significant lightening (i.e. fiberglass bumper, removal of stock bumper shocks etc).

You can remove lights and fill them in. This applies to the bumper lights. The modifcation of the bumper is intend for capping weight reduction.


Here is a photo of the front bumper without pads. All the holes may be filled in or left open. The gaps between the lights and metal may be filled in or you can remove the entire light and fill it in. You can also leave that open, but that would just hurt aero.


I am not sure what you are talking about with respect to tabs.

BTW.. We have night event every year here so I have this spare bumper set-up with ligths. I run normal in the day time and swap this one in for night running. I want to minimize the aero impact during day light and rock damage. My regular day time bumper has all the little holes filled in so it looks a little nicer