joepaluch wrote:


These are the tabs I was referring to
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I am just brainstorming ... considering using it as a location for a duct

if I get into any enduros/night racing, was planning on having a spare bumper with light as well

joepaluch wrote:


Thanks Joe, that's just what I needed to know. I'll try to sell the lights on Ebay to recoup some of the build cost and cover over the opening for aero.


I pulled all the calipers and tore them down. The fluid had more water than brake fluid in it. Lots of rust forming inside the pot, but the pistons were still free. The caipers were so rusted, I had to beat them apart with a big ball-peen hammer.







If I had the money I'd just buy rebuilt ones. I'll have these sand-blasted to remove all the rust, rework the pots and pistons, throw in a seal kit and they'll be good as new. After all, What did I expect from a 26 yr old car with 170,000 miles on it



The rear rotors look good so I'll just have them turned.

I took my box of rusty parts over to a friends shop and used his sand blaster.



what started out looking like this.......



ended up looking like .......





before.......after......







Before you say it, NO, I DID NOT sandblast the inside of the pot or piston. I cleanded that up with a fine wire wheel and a very very fine rubber disk.

Amazing what you can do with a little air and sand in about an hour of time!! Because the parts will start to rust right away, I threw a coat of paint on them. Installed new seals, dust boots and assembled. I'm waiting on the pads before I install them back on the car. Once installed I'll refill the system with some Motul 600 and bleed.





Good as new, just waiting to go back on! I'd have them back on if only someone had not forgotten to order brake pads!



I removed the backing plate, parking brake shoes and associated hardware. I then install the SS brake lines.

Really nice work on all of this, Ken. This attention to detial should pay off in a more reliable car over the long term.

Thanks, I'm tryin' hard to cover all the wear items and get them back in top condition. I don't want to break down at every event. I can pay a little now or pay Nick a lot at the track. To me there's nothing more frustrating than having to work on your car at the track or pay someone to.


OK, let's finish up with the rest of the brake/clutch system. I'm not going to put fresh fluid in a system that hasn't been maintained for years and expect it to work flawlessly, especially since it had a lot of water and dirt in it.





For peace of mind I pulled the rest of the system.



The fluid that came out was black as coal and was mostly water. I pulled everything apart cleaned and inspected it. It looked good, no pitting in the brake master or rust in the clutch master or slave. All the seals looked to be in good shape with no tears rips or major rub spots. I coated everything with fresh brake fluid and assembled. I cleaned the reservoir with scrubbing bubbles believe it or not. I squirted it in the holes till it foamed out. Let it sit for about 15 minutes and rinsed. I did this several times but there was some very stubborn stuff caked on the inside. I then inserted 2 dozen little nuts, filled it up again with the foam and shook the reservoir back and forth rotating it slowly so to get all 4 sides. It took about 15 minutes of shaking and I put more form in as I went. Beats buying a new one for a $100.







I got everything back together and ready to be filled and bled. The brake pads should be in Thur. so I'll finish that up tomorrow night.