Once you cut holes in the rocker panels, weld nuts to the torsion bars and use a slide hammer, it is a fairly quick job.
Unless you make a template for the holes from a fellow racers car, it takes a bit of time to located the center of the hole. Once you do, cut a 1 1/2 to 2" hole with a hole cutter. I mig welded 13mm nuts to the torsion bars and welded a 13mm bolt to the attachment on my slide hammer. The first torsion bars I did I drilled a holes and tapped them. The bars are heat treated and I wiped out a number of drill bits so I do not recommend this method.
Jack up the rear of the car and put it on jack stands. Loosen the 17mm bottom bolt (the one with the aluminum spacer) on the bracket that holds the spring plates. At this point it is probalby a good idea to loosen the bolts holding the spring plates center them and then snug the bolts. Screw the slide hammer into the torsion bar and lightly tap as you raise the jack under the trailing arm. When you have the pressure off, the torsion bar should slide out.
There is a write up on Clarks Garage on how to index torsion bars by Doug D.. It is a bit to complicated for me so I just measure up from the ground to the center of the axle. Adjust the trailing arm up or down remembering that 28 or 30mm bars will not twist as much as the stock ones. Put some lube on the splines and install the new torsoin bars. They probably will not slide in without rotating them. If you screw the slide hammer into the nut it makes the job easier. Once both bars are in, lower the car, jump on the rear bumper a few times and measure the ride height.
You will probably have to re=index or if you are lucky you will be able to make adjustemnts with the spring plates and then torque tne bolts. You will need a flat wrench to hold the spring plate bolts. Pelican has one.
Jim Richmond
