Aw man, sorry to hear that, Al.

Cross drilled crank, or no?

Make sure the new motor has a cross driled crank, late style oil pan baffle, and trap door to keep oil by the pick up. With that , and good oil, you should be safe!

Sterling Doc wrote:


All of that is good, but keep the oil level at the full mark for each session. Always check it before you run. I also recommend using 15-50 or 20-50 racing oil. My preference is AMSOIL Dominator, but Redline racing or similar syntheic racing (not street) oil will probably work. Some guys seem to get away with wt 40 street oils, but I just don't feel comfortable with that. If you run a 30wt oil you probably will spin a bearing.

I'm pretty excited about the drive train I found for Al's car. Clown Shoe Motorsports will be installing a 1988 M44/09 from a 924S with less than 45,000 original miles. Compression is 180-182 psi across the board, so we are just going to take care of the bottom end oiling and then slap it in along with the late harness, late AFM, 88 DME, and short 5th transaxle. Al, was already fast, but with the new motor and a few suspension updates that Clown Shoe Motorsports is also doing, the rest of us might spend a lot of time looking at Al's tail lights.

-bj

Sounds great, BJ - nice find!

Yep, it felt like I was driving around with the e-brake on. I should've pulled it in, but I figured I could still have fun tossing it into corners and if anyone dropped out I'd get more points. I cant wait to pull to oil pan and head to see if there is a smoking gun and see if the head is salvageable.

BJ and Clown Shoe Motorsports really came through with a fabulous option to not only get the car back together for Hallett in a couple of weeks but to step up to some first class hardware. I cant wait!

Al Fernandez wrote:


Classic sign of a spinning bearing. The other is a thumping sounds. AKA the rod knock. As for damage. when mine blew up entire bottom end was junk. I even need to replace a engine mount as one got damaged when the parts exited the block. In my case it was the drivers side metal mount. Yeah the metal not the rubber as the block had a giant hole under the pad.

The head needed to have bent valves replaced on the #2 cylinder and then a standard had refresh. I was using the stock oil cooler and the time and it was junk being full of crap. Waterpump can probably be salvaged, but I would not trust the oil pump. Interstingly I have reused the oil pressure relief valve. Thaat worked fine. Balance shafts may be fine, but since they are all matched to the blocks covers are toast. The shafts may be reuseable, but I don't know people to replace the shafts for any reason. so nothing to save there.

Hmm what else?.... Clutch and flywheel should be fine and reusable.