I am not fan of accusumps. Their only impact tends be instead of putting down 7 Qts of oil when motor blows you put down 10 Qts.

The rod bearing issue tends to be localized issue at the rod journal driven by oil flow rate rather than pressure. I have seen these motors spin bearings at full pressure. Even so some guy like accusumps.

Spent about 3 hours today removing the mastic sound deadener from the cockpit. I ended up using my halogen shop lamp to heat it up just enough to soften the glue on the tunnel and the mastic itself and then slid a scraper underneath. Since it didn't melt it, most of it came up in sheets. Just have to remove the residue with some solvent.

Picked up a few more pieces. Throw out bearing and a spare motor to rebuild (local purchase from a shop doing a v8 conversion)

I'm going to have to give that halogen lamp trick a try. Some of the sound deadener in my car can just be picked off, but I'm all for getting it out of the car as easy as possible...yeah right.

What type of solvent are you going to use? I've seen writeups about using brake cleaner, bleach, and Xylene to get rid of the leftover adhesive mess.

You need a wire wheel like this on a grinder works great.



Smaller ones like these to get in the corners.



A heat gun and small blade wood chisel.



A few cans of Acetone and a bunch of terri cloth rags. I cut the rags into smaller peices, they're easier to use.



Make sure to wear a shield or goggles for the eyes and a mask for the lungs and gloves for the hands.

Get as much of the glue stuff off with the wire wheel and the rest should come up with the Acetone. It's a long and tedious job.

B1BFlyer wrote:


I am going to be using xylene with a respirator...once I get it off the jackstands and back outside...no where near the hot water heater!

It looks like my "combo-attack" plan of using a scraper, die grinder with wire brushes, and a final chemical solution of some sort will be the result.

There's more than one way to skin a cat...or strip sound material!